Delia Snyder is passionate about the food that comes out of her kitchen. Her taste for international cuisines and appreciation for the culinary arts rivals those of a classically trained chef. But her strength is in melding an element of down-home cooking to the “Tiki Polynesian” cuisine featured at Don the Beachcomber in Huntington Beach. Snyder sparked an interest in her craft early on and learned tricks of the trade here and there. But when it comes to Polynesian fare, her experience is unique. Don the Beachcomber himself, Donn Beach, often cooked for Snyder and her sister. Beach was considered “The Father of Tiki,” and by the end of World War II, his restaurants had gained wide acclaim. Snyder says that this brand of Polynesian-fusion cuisine includes a lot of elements of Cantonese cooking. It’s marked by flavorful spices that give each dish a unique balance between the sweet and the savory. And she ought to know: Snyder helped develop many of the items on the menu, right alongside Executive Chef Jason Jassmann. Here is her recipe for the restaurant’s signature crab cakes, which are frequent sell-outs.


Delia’s Don the Beachcomber Crab Cakes

Ingredients
9        oz. fresh Dungeness lump crabmeat
3        oz. Black Tiger shrimp, minced
1/8     tsp. white pepper
1/8     tsp. Hawaiian salt
1/8     tsp. curry powder
1/8     tsp. cayenne pepper
1        tsp. olive oil
1        tbs. olive oil, for cooking
4        sprigs of fresh parsley, leaves picked and finely minced
2        sprigs of fresh tarragon, leaves picked and finely minced
2        fresh basil leaves, minced
3        small shallots, minced
1        stalk of lemongrass, white parts only, finely minced
1        egg white
1/2     tsp. fish sauce
1        tbs. Hawaiian bread crumbs
Panko bread crumbs

Preparation
Combine all the ingredients except the crab, Panko crumbs and 1 tablespoon of oil, and mix thoroughly.
    
Gently fold in the crab, being careful not to break up the lumps of meat. Divide the mixture into four portions and gently shape each mound into patties that measure about 3 inches across and 1/4 inch thick, but don’t press down. Refrigerate patties until they’re well chilled, at least 30 minutes or up to 24 hours before cooking.
    
When ready to cook, heat the tablespoon of olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Lightly pat the Panko crumbs onto the crab cakes. Do not dredge or press down on the cakes.
    
Cook until each side is lightly browned, about four minutes.
    
To serve, place two cakes to a plate and garnish with greens or Asian slaw.

Makes 2 servings