Dining Reviews



We were lamenting that both Cosmo’s locations in OC are in the vast south county, and we who live in the more urban (!) north were feeling acutely deprived. We wanted a Cosmo’s of our very own, and we were prepared to hold our breath until we turned blue in order to get one. 
There are 2 Cosmo’s locations; the one I visited is in Aliso Viejo (the other is slightly farther inland in the Mission Viejo area). All you have to do is look at the walls to see how close the ties are to the communities that surround the restaurants. Little League sponsorship plaques, elementary school artwork, photos of locals tucking into an abundant meal...



In an earlier review, I compared Cosmo’s to the most enjoyable of the old Italian family style restaurants in San Francisco’s North Beach neighborhood: casual and openhandedly friendly. My most recent visit didn’t change my outlook a bit. The place is just plain fun. 

And still tasty after all these years. It’s unfailingly fresh, which is something, like the cheery welcome and attention you receive, that can’t be faked.



I ordered the spinach mustard salad and found myself facing down a big plate brimming with fresh spinach leaves topped with fried bits of fresh prosciutto – no bacon bits here. The fine dressing was used with great restraint, allowing the bright spinach flavor to stand on its own. 
Though it had been a warm day, I still longed for something from the “Baked Specialties” section of the menu and found a sturdy friend in the penne Ghiottona. It’s penne in a light cream Bolognese sauce, topped with mozzarella cheese and baked to perfection. 

The penne – cooked traditionally and then baked – remained substantial and hearty. The sauce was what a good Bolognese should be: filled with big, spicy flavors of meat and vegetables, in this case leavened by the judicious use of cream to turn it a bright and pleasant pink. The mozzarella, grandly melted over all, provided additional thick texture and muscular flavor to this lovely dish.



I’m a sucker for meatballs on the side whenever they’re offered, and, thankfully, Cosmo’s has them on the menu (sausage, too). If your pasta dish is meatless – or even if it’s not – these meatballs are fine complements. Their texture is subtle enough not to overwhelm the parent dish, but with judicious use of onions and spices, they’re still nicely assertive in taste. I began to think that the spinach-mustard salad and a side of meatballs would make an excellent light lunch. 

Next time, I’ve promised myself: the pizza.

OCM 

Cosmo’s Italian Kitchen, 23411 Aliso Viejo Parkway, Aliso Viejo, 949.448.9040.