Dining Reviews


The Cellar ranks among the most celebrated restaurants in Southern California, with its legendary wine cellar and walls dripping with awards. And it is by no means inexpensive, which is why I went alone. On a limited reviewer’s budget, I knew I would be able to manage only a dinner for 1 before the finance department’s alarm bells would clang. A conservative estimate: Dinner for 2, with a bottle of wine, could tally between $250 and $300. 



When I arrived on a Wednesday evening, I was told by the charming hostess that there was a large convention in town, and the attendees were lining up to dine at The Cellar. Would I mind sitting at a small table in the bar area? I happily agreed. The bar area, as in most restaurants, is a crossroads of activity: Waiters shuttle back and forth, hosts and hostesses greet arriving diners, and parties enjoy drinks while waiting for their tables. I like it. For less contented others, it’s a small price to pay for dining alone. 



Besides, The Cellar has atmosphere. Opened in 1969, it occupies a cavern-like space below the Villa del Sol (the former California Hotel) in downtown Fullerton. A crew of Disneyland artisans dressed the vaulted interior, which resembles a vast wine cellar, with sculptures, carvings, niches, nooks and other unique touches. It evokes a feeling of intimacy as you dine in the snug isolation of a romantic, dimly lit corner. 

The service is top-tier, the table settings punctilious, the award-winning wine list staggering. Elegant, yes, but not subtle. 



The youthful Ryan Dudley bought The Cellar nearly 4 years ago from longtime owners Ernest and Trudy Zingg, Swiss restaurateurs who brought a crisp European sensibility to the operation. Dudley, whose professional pedigree includes GM positions at various Lawry’s restaurants (including Five Crowns in Corona del Mar) has retained much of the staff and many of the menu items, and brought back David Kesler as the executive chef, who cooked for the Zinggs for years.



I began my meal with the Norwegian smoked salmon. Served with toast points and the traditional garnishes of capers, lemon, egg and onions, the thinly sliced fish was a smooth and piquant delight, just enough to call the palate to attention. 



My entrée of roast pork tenderloin, Normandy style, was served with a car-amelized apple and walnut cream sauce, a heady and intensely rich combination of assertive flavors. The fork-tender pork showed great care in cooking – it was just the slightest bit crisp on the outside – and nearly melted on the tongue. The little bites of winter vegetables served as sides were bursting with freshness, as well. 



Souffles are signature desserts, so I ordered the Grand Marnier variety. Beautifully presented, the sauce is made from crème Anglaise, and the liqueur is disarmingly smooth and sweet. 



The wine list has 2 pages of by-the-glass selections. I had the finely tart Sancerre, and it paired beautifully with the pork. A glass of Dubonnet rouge was a fine starter for the evening. 



Next time I’ll bring more money – and more friends. 




305 N. Harbor Blvd., Fullerton 
714.525.5682 
cellardining.com